Temples of Angkor

The temples of Angkor: the Archaeological Park

Scattered over some four hundred square kilometres of countryside between the Tonle Sap lake and the Kulen Mountains, the temples of Angkor are one of the world’s great architectural showpieces – an astonishing profusion of ancient monuments remarkable both for their size and number, not to mention their incredible levels of artistry. An idealized representation of the Hindu cosmos in stone, they range from great pyramidal temple-mountains of Angkor Wat and Pre Rup through to the labyrinthine monasteries of Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei, as well as more miniature and intimate sanctuaries such as Thommanon and Preah Ko.

Magnificent to begin with, the ravages of time and nature have added immeasurably to the temples’ appeal, with individual monuments now stranded romantically amid great swathes of forest, often in various states of picturesque semi-ruin – a far cry from the great days of the Angkorian empire, when each temple would have formed the centrepiece of a string of once bustling (but now entirely vanished) villages, towns and miniature cities spread across the densely inhabited countryside. Some, like Angkor Wat and the Baphuon, have been meticulously restored; others, like Ta Prohm and Beng Mealea, remain half-choked by the encroaching jungle, their buildings smothered in a photogenic tangle of creepers and strangler figs.

The most famous of the temples is the legendary Angkor Wat, with its five magnificent corncob towers and vast complex of bas-relief galleries. Also on everyone’s itinerary is the walled city of Angkor Thom, where you’ll find the magical Bayon state temple, topped with dozens of towers carved with enigmatic faces of the bodhisattva Lokesvara, one of ancient Cambodia’s most iconic images. Nearby, the similarly iconic Ta Prohm also attracts crowds of visitors, its crumbling ruins engulfed by the surrounding jungle, with shrines and statues held in the vice-like grip of giant tree roots.

All the temples close to Siem Reap are contained within the so-called Angkor Archaeological Park and covered by a single entrance ticket, as are a number of other headline attractions slightly further afield including Banteay Srei, a unique micro-temple of intricately carved reddish stone, and the Roluos Group, home to some of Angkor’s oldest temples. Several other major Angkorian monuments can be found even further from Siem Reap, outside the Archaeological Park and covered by their own tickets. These include the jungle-smothered temple of Beng Mealea, the great temple-towns of Koh Ker and Preah Khan (Kompong Thom), and the stunning Preah Vihear in the far north of the country, sitting high on a mountaintop above the Thai border.

Brief history

For six hundred years from the early ninth century the area around Angkor Wat was the heart of the Khmer Empire. A ready supply of water and the fertility of the land meant that the area could support large populations, and successive Angkorian kings constructed their royal cities and state temples here. Despite the region’s importance, there’s a dearth of written records: the ancient Khmer wrote on specially treated palm trees or animal skins and none of their texts have survived. Consequently the history of Angkor had to be painstakingly pieced together through study of the temples and more than a thousand inscribed steles – mostly written in Sanskrit – found across the empire. Even now, Angkorian history remains hypothetical to some degree, with the origins of many temples, the dates of their construction and even the names of kings uncertain.

Angkor’s earliest monuments date from 802, when Jayavarman II came north from Kompong Cham to set up court at Phnom Kulen. The empire reached its apogee in the twelfth century under the leadership of Jayavarman VII – the greatest temple-builder of all – when it stretched from the coast of Vietnam to the Malay peninsula, to Bagan in Myanmar and north to Laos. No further stone temples were built after the reign of Jayavarman VII came to an end in 1219; either the area’s resources were exhausted or the switch to Theravada Buddhism may have precluded their construction. The region’s existing temples and palaces remained in use until they were sacked by the Thais in 1431; the following year, Ponhea Yat took his court south to Phnom Penh and left Angkor to the jungle. Though Angkor was never completely deserted, the local people who continued to worship at the temples were unable to maintain them.

Around 1570, King Satha was so enchanted when he rediscovered Angkor Thom deep in the jungle that he had the undergrowth cleared and brought his court there, though by 1594 he was back at Lovek. Another short-lived period of royal interest occurred in the middle of the seventeenth century when, according to a letter penned by a Dutch merchant to the governor-general of the Dutch East Indies, “the king [Barom Rachea VI] paid a visit to a lovely pleasant place known as Anckoor”. Subsequently, despite tales of a lost city in the Cambodian jungle filtering back to the West via missionaries and traders, it wasn’t until the nineteenth century that Cambodia opened up to European explorers (although, from the end of the eighteenth century, as part of Battambang province, it actually came under Thai rule – a state of affairs that lasted until 1907, when the French negotiated its return). The first proper account of Angkor Wat, published by the French missionary Charles-Emile Bouillevaux in 1858, failed to arouse wide interest, but in 1864, the diaries of botanist and explorer Henri Mouhot, who had stumbled on Angkor by accident a few years earlier, were published posthumously, and the temples gripped the world. The Briton J. Thompson published the first photographs of Angkor in 1867, and was the first to suggest a link between temple architecture and the mythical Mount Meru. Close behind him came Doudart Lagrée, who discovered Beng Mealea and Preah Khan (Kompong Thom).

Angkor Temples

Angkor Wat***** history summary

Since the publicized Angkor Wat temple "discovery" in the mid 19th century, it has been described as the largest religious building in the world, and is rightly spoken of as one of the wonders of the ancient world, along with sites such as Macchu Picchu and the Taj Mahal. The temple is located just over 6km from Siem Reap, is the centrepiece of the Angkor Archaeological Park, and has been UNESCO listed as a world heritage site since 1992.

One of the largest Angkor temples, Angkor Wat was built under King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century. Originally built as a temple to Vishnu, it has been in continuous use as a Buddhist shrine since the adoption of Theravada Buddhism by the Khmer people, meaning it has remained in excellent condition over the centuries. Because of its symbolic representation of ancient Khmer nationhood, the temple survived the Khmer Rouge years relatively undamaged, and tourist numbers have increased steadily since the political situation stabilized.

Angkor Thom*****history summary >

Angkor Thom in Cambodia was the capital city of Jayavarman VII's empire, and the center of his massive building programmed - one inscription found in the city refers to Jayavarman as the groom, and the city as his bride. 1km north of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom City is a walled enclosure full of partially ruined temples and forest - from the iconic Bayon, to little known gems, such as Preah Palilay. Angkor Thom highlights include walking along the high laterite stone walls that enclose the city or seeing the late afternoon sun striking the faces of Jayavarman VII that adorn the towers of the Bayon.Angkor Thom was indeed a Great City, and was built by the great Jayavarman VII to commemorate his victory over the Cham in 1181. It would have been larger than any European city of the time, and may have housed as many as one million people. The temple of Baphuon for example was described by Zhou Daguan, at the end of the 13th century, as a "truely astonishing spectacle", a Tower of Bronze higher than the Tower of Gold that was Bayon. Much of the palaces that he saw were made of wood, and destroyed by the Siamese invasion of 1432. The city was abandoned by the 17th century.

Jean Boisselier in 1987... "Angkor Thom is undeniably an expression of the highest genius. It is, in three dimensions and on a scale worthy of an entire nation, the materialization of Buddhist cosmology, representing the ideas that only great painters would dare to portray... Angkor Thom is not an architectural "miracle"...It is in reality the world of the gods springing up from the heart of ancient Cambodia..."

Bayon*****,Siem Reap,history summary

Bayon in Cambodia is one of the most famous Angkor temples and is renowned for possessing a unique architectural display of giant stone carvings of faces as part of its structure. The temple is located 10km from Siem Reap and the main UNESCO archaeological park, and has a privileged location right in the center right of the town of Angkor Thom. Bayon temple highlights include a dramatic array of architectural complexes to explore aside from the signature faces who will watch your every move. It has never been confirmed exactly who the faces represent, you can decide for yourself. Keen photographers can ascend to the top and will have a great view of the surrounding panorama.Bayon was built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century and was believed to be his state-temple and a centerpiece for Buddhist Worship. After the Cham invasion of 1177AD, following a subsequent battle between the Khmer and the Cham in which the Khmer were victorious, The King ornately decorated the temple with intricate carvings to celebrate the victory. However, following Jayavarman's death, the temple was modified for Theravada and Hindu religious purposes, and suffered damage as a result which gives the temple a decadent form.

Banteay Srie**** history summary >

Banteay Srei in Cambodia is the only temple carved in hard pink sandstone in the Angkor region. It was discovered in 1914 by French archaeologists who described it as a "precious gem" and a "jewel in Khmer art". It is a very small miniature like temple in comparison to the dimensions of other Angkor temples, but due to its intricate and extraordinarily beautiful decoration it has become the favorite temple of many visitors. Amongst Banteay Srei highlights we must mention the refined carved walls of the central sanctuary and the guardian sculptures in the corners of the central tower.Banteay Srei or "Citadel of Women"" was not built by a King as the other Angkor temples. It was built by a brahmin of royal descent who was the spritual teacher of King Jayavarman V. It is therefore a hindu temple dedicated to to Shiva and it was erected in the 967AD. It is believed that its modern name (which means Citade of Women in Khmer) is realted to the perfection of its bas-relief carvings. It was "rediscovered"by French archaeologists in 1914, but it was not restored until 1930 being the first temple to be mainly restored through the anastylosis method.
Maurice Glaize writes in 1944... "Banteay Srei is a sort of 'caprice' where the detail, of an abundance and incomparable prettiness, sweeps away the mass".
Itinerary planning

Banteay Srei, Cambodia - Banteay Srei, Kulen mountain for a full day out from Siem Reap.
Banteay Srei, Cambodia - Banteay Srei, Pre Rup, East Mebon and Angkor Wat for a full day out of Siem Reap.

Beng Mealea**** history summary

Beng Mealea in Cambodia is one of the larger Angkor temples and is built on a similar scale and floor plan to Angkor Wat. The temple is located some 40km from Siem Reap and the main UNESCO archaeological park. For tourists the principle attraction of Beng Mealea is as an exotic travel adventure, a 'lost' temple still gripped by the jungle, removed from the tourist crowds of Angkor. Highlights of Beng Mealea, Cambodia include wonderful photo opportunities of the interplay of ancient carved stonework and nature.Beng Mealea one of the largest Angkor temples Beng Mealea was built under King Suryavarman II, the founder of Angkor Wat. It is commonly believed to be a forerunner or 'blueprint' for Angkor Wat itself and is decorated in substantially the same art style. The temple has remained in its collapsed state, partly hidden by jungle and recently the temple opened to the public. Maurice Glaize writes in 1944... "A trip to Beng Mealea, which in itself demands an entire day, can be combined with a hunting party, since the region is rich in both small and large game and wild animals; - tigers, panthers and elephants, herds of oxen and wild buffalo inhabit the forest as far as Prah Khan of Kompong Svay in the east"
Itinerary planning

Beng Mealea Cambodia - Pradek village, Banteay Srei or the Kulen Mountains (river carvings). A full day out from Siem Reap.
Beng Mealea Cambodia - Psa Leu market, the Roluos group (Bakong, Preah Ko, Lolei) and perhaps the seldom visited temple of Chau Srei Vibol. A full day

Banteay Samre temple***>

Banteay Samre in Cambodia is somewhat "off the beaten track", located away from the more visited Angkor temples. The temple is named after the Samre, an ancient ethnic Indochinese tribe most likely related to the Khmers. Banteay, is a Khmer word for citadel. In its architecture and style the temple bears a very similar resemblance to both its neighbour, Banteay Srey, and the majestic Angkor Wat itself. Banteay Samre highlights would have to include the interior moat which when filled with water must have given the temple a mystical and peaceful sensation. And then of course, the temple's location and surroundings set within beautiful rice paddies and local villages. Banteay Samre's history is very hard to trace and much is left to speculation and interpretation. The name translated as "Citadel of the Samre", is not a distinct reference to its date of construction. Whats more, no inscription has been found for this temple, however historians have generally consented that it would have been built around the same time as Angkor Wat, as the architecture is of the classic art of the same period, although the architecture also suggests that amendments were made to the temple during the Bayon period.

Kbal Spean*** history summary

Kbal Spean is not a temple in Siem Reap, but a further 47km away it is actually a the sacred site established along the tributary of the Siem Reap river which is found at the base of the Kulen mountains of Cambodia after Banteay Srei to the north. For 150m over one stretch of the river (amazingly this was only discovered in 1968) there are fascinating images of deities, and within this 1000 lingas giving the river its sanskrit moniker - 'River of a Thousand Lingas'. The Kbal Spean highlights are numerous, and include carvings of Vishnu reclining, a naturally formed bridge, and a small, perfectly formed
waterfall at the end of the carved river bed. The style of the river is that of the Baphuon era, and the deities depicted are all Hindu. Some inscriptions which have been found date the carvings back to the reign of Udayadityavarman II.
Itinerary planning

Kbal Spean, Cambodia - visit Kbal Spean and combine it with Banteay Srei for a shorter excursion. Add Neak Pan and Preah Khan to your itinerary for a full day out from Siem Reap.

Koh Ker**** history summary >

Koh Ker Temple in Cambodia is a huge temple complex that served as the capital of the Khmer empire for a brief period between 928AD and 944AD. It is located 118kilometers northeast of Siem Reap and as it is the case with other remote temples, Koh Ker has not been restored and is one of the least studied temple-complex. Saying that, the area has 42 major temples and it once contained some of the most extraordinary sculptures ever produced in the Khmer art. Two of them are kept in the National Museum at Phnom Penh, the huge Garuda bird at the entrance hall and the monkeys Sugriva and Bali werstling protraying an episode of the Ramayana. Koh Ker highlights include the predominant Preasat Thom monument and the stunning view from its summit, and the Shiva lingas in Prasat thneng and Prasat Leung.
The history of Koh Ker temple is linked to the obscure figure of King Jayavarman IV, about whom scholars cannot agree whether he was an usurper or not. About five years before he became king, Jayavarman IV left the then capital of Angkor Yashodharapura (which was under the reing of his uncle) and he established at Koh Ker. By moving the capital to this distant area King Jayavarman IV divided the empire and to do so he must have have held considerable power as a military leader. In 1880 Louis Delapore visited the site whilst undertaking a broader study of the Angkor temples. There has not been restoration works at the temple and archaeological surveys were undertaken by cambodia teams in the 1960s but these studies were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge regime.
Itinerary planning

Koh Ker, Cambodia - Start at Koh Ker and allow yoursefl three hours to explore the temple group. On your way back to Siem Reap stop at Beng Mealea and get back to Siem Reap before back

Kulen Mountain*** history summary

Phnom Kulen is a mountain range of moderate height that stretches over 12.8 kilometers along the Angkor plain. It is located 48 kilometers north of Siem Reap and its name means "mountain of the lychees"". Phnom Kulen has a symbolic importance and it is venerated by Cambodians as it is the site where the Khmer empire originated. There is a sacred hilltop site on top of the range (also known as Phnom Kulen) and studies undertaken last century identified over 30 different temple ruins. Phnom Kulen is the birthplace of the Angkor era as it was here that Jayavarman II united the different states in the region and proclaimed independence from Java in 802AD. In a ceremony celebrated in the same year in the Phnom Kulen he proclaimed himself king and he built a temple called Rong Chen that would that would be where his royal linga was kept. The temple had a pyramidal shape resembling the Mount Meru.
Itinerary planning

Phnom Kulen, Cambodia - Banteay Srei, Phnom Kulen, or Beng Mealea for a full day out of Siem Reap.
Phnom Kulen, Cambodia - Banteay Srei, Phnom Kulen, or Banteay Samre and Pre Rup for a full day out of Siem Reap.

Preah Khan*** history summary >

Preah Khan is a large monastic complex encompassing 56 hectareas (138 acres) built as a monastery and a center for learning by King Jayavarman VII. At its peak it accommodated 15,000 monks, teachers and students and about 100,000 farmers produced rice to feed all the population of the city - complex. As it is the case with other Angkor Temples, the nature has taken its toll over the buildings and large trees have overgrown from the structures. However, the enigmatic Garudas that are the Preah-Khan highlights are in good condition, serving as the mythical guardians of the temple complex. The numerous galleries and passages of Prea Khan offer some great photo opportunities.Built on the 1191AD by King Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father Dharanindravarman, it originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school. Preah Khan was an entire city that accommodated 100,000 farmers and 15,000 monks, and its subsidiary buildings included a hospital, rest house and a rice granary. For a short period it also served as the residence of King Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of Angkor Thom. Preah Khan is erected on a battle site where king Jayavarman VII finally defeated the arch-enemy Cham army.

H Churchill Candee writes... "Preah Khan, the Beguiler, the Romancer, and the artist... it is an entrancing mystery deep in the jungle, soft and alluring in the twilight made by heavy verdure, accessible only to the ardent lover of the past days who is gifted with agility... They may have been courtyards where high priests gathered and guardians slept, but now they are walled bowers over which the trees exited to heaven's blue... it all seems a wondrous mass of beauty tossed together in superb confusion.

Roluos Group*** history summary

Bakong, a Roluos group temple, occupies an area 900 meters by 700 meters long and it consists of 3 enclosure walls, 2 moats and a 3 tiered pyramid. It was the only pyramidal temple constructed in the Roluos group but it would be the model that would be adopted for the later Angkor temples. If you are traveling from Siem Reap, Route 6 crosses into the first enclosure wall and the first moat and will lead you to the edge of the second enclosure wall. A wide stone causeway crosses the second moat and it is framed by a seven headed naga on each side. Follow the path that will take you across the remains of satellite brick temples on both sides until you arrive to the third wall's eastern Gopura. There are two halls on either side of the main path just before the main sanctuary which are believed to be later additions to the temple (probably from the 12th or 13th century). Ahead of this buildings lies the pyramidal shaped sacturay. There are 4 set of steps on each tier that are flanked by sculpture of lions. The third tier also has elephant statues on the corners of the platform (resembling those of East Mebon).

On top of the pyramid there is a single tower that was constructed later in time. Its pediments portray Shiva dancing on the east side, a scene of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk on the south, Vishnu reclining on the west and the northern pediment depicts a scene from the Ramanayana. You can view the surrounding eight sanctuary brick towers from the upper level.

Elephants Terrace and Terrace of Leper King history summary >

The Elephant Terrace and the Terrace of the Leper King form a 500m long platform across the east side of the Royal Palace in Angkor Thom. The terraces are very different structures to the other Angkor temples, but thanks to their picturesque surroundings, facing the Prasats Suor Prat, and incredible carvings, they are an essential stop an any tour of the city. Elephant Terrace and Terrace of the Leper King highlights include the carvings of Airavata, Indra's three headed Elephant, and Balaha, the five headed horse, as well as an impressive array of Garuda bas-reliefs.
There is evidence that the terraces were rebuilt and added to, although they are usually credited to Jayavarman VII at the end of the 12th Century, and display much Buddhist mythology. The terraces have undergone several additions since their construction, partly due to collapse of the original walls during the Angkor period (a section of the original is visible in an excavated trench), and later additions were made by Jayavarman VIII at the end of the 13th Century.

Ta Prohm**** history summary

Ta Prohm in Cambodia is one of the more famous Angkor temples and is a very popular spot, second only to Angkor Wat temple for tourists. The temple is located 12km from Siem Reap within the main UNESCO archaeological park. For tourists the principle attraction of Ta Prohm is as an exotic travel adventure, a 'lost' temple still gripped by the jungle. Highlights of Ta Prohm, Cambodia include wonderful photo opportunities of the interplay of ancient carved stonework and nature.
Ta Prohm was built under King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It was originally dedicated to the King's mother in the Buddhist style but later converted to the Hindu style. Many of the figures of Buddha in niches were destroyed in the process and some converted to Shiva Linga (Hindu). The temple has remained in its collapsed state, part hidden by jungle and is most famous for the interplay between the giant tree roots and the stonework.

Chau Srie Vibol temple >

Chau Srei Vibol in Cambodia is a small charming temple on top of a hill which hardly sees any visitors - very few non-locals have heard of it, and it is set just far enough away from the main tourist routes.
The central sanctuary has not been restored and is in a ruinous state but this is one of the main attractions of the site. Originally the temple would have consisted of at least two laterite walls divided by a moat, the central sanctuary, and a library to the East. Nowadays the outer wall is not visible and only the some parts and the gopuras of the inner wall remain - still enclosing a large area of shaded forest around the central temple. The sanctuary is on top of a hill and a modern Buddhist wat has been constructed nearby. A dense forest surrounds the temple and the trees will provide you with a much needed cool shade in the heat of the day. As with some of the other Siem Reap temples further afield , the calm and peacefulness of Chau Srei Vibol and its beautiful surroundings make this spot perfect for a day out trip - and one of our countryside walks ends here, either with a picnic lunch or an end of day drink.
Walk around the laterite wall until you reach the Western entrance. You will notice that despite the ruinous state of the gates the carved lintels on some of them are in quite good condition. There is a set of a steep steps on the west entrance that will take you to the top of the hill where the central sanctuary is. Some of the temple galleries have collapsed and there are big stone blocks spread over the floor of the temple. You can spot some stone lion statues among the piles. One of the Chau Srei Vibol highlights is the enormous tree that has grown out of the sanctuary building.